- cross-posted to:
- ergomechkeyboards@lemmy.world
- cross-posted to:
- ergomechkeyboards@lemmy.world
publicação cruzada de: https://lemmy.world/post/33514874
Hi there fellow people,
I was building an Aurora Sofle_v2 and I may have screwed things up. I melted one of the RGBs with the soldering iron and in the process of trying to remove it the solder pad was removed as well
After that I tried to “fix” it a handful of times, and now I believe that the connectors might be gone =(
Is there a way for me to salvage this RGB? (Or perhaps to link the previous one with the following one on the chain, so at least it works for the others)
I was thinking of connecting things using cables, is this an option?
You mean SW8? Hard to tell anything given how dirty the PCB is. You might need to clean everything to actually see the traces. The RGB above it does also look damaged.
Yeah, it is evident that I am very bad at this hahaha, the other RGBs work fine (at least for now), but this SW8 is gone.
What do I need to buy to clean the PCB? (I’m based in Portugal BTW), I tried to use something that was labeled as a ‘pickling agent’, but that didn’t work out well (as we can see in the picture)
Anything with higher % of alcohol (say >60%) will work, including IPA based disinfectant. Ideally you use pure alcohol, specifically ethanol or isopropanol or propanol.
As the other person suggested, you can save it, but it is harder than soldiering, so perhaps practice.
If you have lifted the pad off, the only way to fix it is to use a bodge wire. You should be able to run a wire between the broken pad and the previous functional one in the network. If you look up bodge wire you’ll see this is a pretty standard practice, especially when prototyping PCBs.
Hmmm, you mean a special wire for soldering right? I was initially thinking in soldering some scraps from a copper cable I had laying around but quickly realized it was not going to work
You normally just use very tiny wire. Anything is technically fine but certain types make it easier. Generally something solid core, 30-40AWG. Some people have a specific preference for Kynar or Teflon but there’s no hard and fast rules.
I see, the tiny wire I had was the problem then, it has multiple filaments that kept going off
I’ll try this one today!